Some would say that I’m a multisport enthusiast! I fly hang gliders, skateboard, and am an avid snowboarder. The one thing I had not tried until now (I’ve just entered my sixth decade!) was surfing. I was given the opportunity of a lesson. I was fully prepared to spend a few hours in the water, falling over and over again, until I would experience my first minutes (seconds?) of surfing while standing on the board!
I was stunned by the ease with which one can learn to surf. My instructor taught me to lay down on my stomach, experience the power trigger that allows the board to accelerate, and, precisely like skateboarding or snowboarding, shift my weight on the board to initiate curves. After five minutes, it was time to kneel on the board rather than lay down.
I was surprised by the stability of the board. So after a few other minutes, it was time to try to stand! Even if my knees are not what they used to be, it was easy to transition to the standing position. I will not pretend that I became a pro in a few minutes, but after a few falls, I managed to surf for a few minutes, gradually accelerating and testing wide turns. I only became bolder since, and I have not had so much fun on the water for a long time!
What impressed me the most was that it took less than an hour to transition from the less-than-dignified laying position to the regular standing position. Since then, I progress with each ride. I’m now looking at the Carbon board with a lot of envy!